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Skat blast vacumn motor2/27/2024 ![]() Start by making a comfortable simple, sturdy wood bench out of 1 x 12's, about 18" wide, 18" high, and 11" minimum front to back. Instead of building a blasting cabinet, I built a three (3) sided contraption similar to a 32" wide, one seat truck cab out of scrap plywood - no floor, no back of cab - no vacuum pipe, no blasting media collector, no sealed cabinet doors, no lights - no limit on sizes of parts! ![]() TIP advertised in Hemmings Motor News has a catalog where one can get plans to build a blasting cabinet using their plans and their parts to use with the cabinet. "Blasting cabinets can be expensive - then there is size to consider - for ModelĪ wheels? fenders? doors?- for one or two cars? Posted this on other Model A Forum about 12 years ago after making one. This cuts the time in the cabinet by half or more, especially on complex items like a wheel. To save time I now will first put rusty stuff an electrolytic rust removal for a day or two and then into the cabinet. The crushed glass media work pretty good for getting the rust off of stuff. I raised it up with some 2 x 12" scraps I found. I am 6' 7" tall and it is too short to use for a long time. At the other end I go back to 1/2" copper and into a large old Devilbiss water separator/ regulator I bought cheap at a flea market. Then go 30" across the garage with 3/4 copper sloped back to the compressor. I come out of the compressor with a water separator and 1/2" pipe. I do not have a water problem, but I made my pipes to limit the water. If you are going to use quick connectors get the 3/8" connectors. The compressor is 1946 vintage and the motor is probably 70's vintage. The glass has a layer of plastic on it and does not clean well if you have rough particles on it. They get messed up and once in a while you accidentally blast them. Buy lots of extra glass shields for inside. Just take the ceramic nozzles off and throw them away. The bag gets larger holes in it over time so I bought a new bag and put on the HEPA filter which is cleanable. The vacuum motor bearing stopped working from the dust getting in. I needed to replace on left glove just recently. ![]() I have an older (20 years now?) 960 that I picked up at Hershey. As long as you have volumes of air, these commercial units can be refurbished to last you a lifetime and still be able to sell it to someone else and get all your money back. If that amount of money for a new unit is not in your budget, consider looking at used equipment dealers down in KC or over in Chicago where they have purchased heavy-duty commercial units from manufacturing companies who have fallen on hard times. When time is money, what is the value of those extra 4 hours? In other words, you can get 5 hours of blasting done in 1 hour with a direct pressure unit. The direct pressure over a siphon feel is about 5-times as fast (efficient). Maybe you are thinking the same thing on the word "big" however the two things that turn a decent cabinet into a great one is a top load feature as it fits in a tighter usable area and the media does not fall into the floor every time the unit is opened. To me, those units are classified as "big". They also require about 35 cfm of air to operate. These units complete are in the $8k-$10k range f.o.b. For me, my next blast cabinet is going to be a direct pressure, top-load 60" or 72" wide unit. Reading all of this, I think alot of your answers are defined by the word "big". I have a clear glass on the top of the cabinet and set a 4 foot double bulb florescent light on top of it, so the bulb is on the outside of the cabinet. That makes sense, and I'll turn them around the next time I find a good pair at the junk yard.īTW, since making my own cabinet, now I have seen some that I'd just buy rather than build my own again. They lost the pressure after about 6 months, and my neighbor, who happens to be an excellent hot rod builder, said I should have mounted the struts with the tube UP, so the seals are always kept wet. ![]() I used struts from a hatchback to hold the lid open, and they overcenter to also add closing pressure. This makes loading heavy items much easier plus I can have other equipment right up to the ends of the cabinet, so there isn't wasted floor space, which is always at a premium for me. I made the ends closed and have the complete front hinged at the top and open up. It's 4 feet wide by about 3 feet high and 3 feet deep. I didn't see the cabinet I wanted, so about 15 years ago I built my own.
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